Saturday, 31 December 1859

Rose latish. Col. Bowen at breakfast. Went to 9 Condotti, & to Macbeans: Malta steamer not in yet. Returned to N°. 9 ― lo! the Saturday Review, & a letter from poor George, who has come from Brindisi, & has been ill 6 days, & is now at Naples, not being able to come on [...]

Friday, 30 December 1859

Slept hardly at all ― & woke unwell. Breakfast & Col. Bowen. After calling at the Post, where both Ancôna diligences had come in & no George ― I came to Macbean & drew £50. & then to 9 v. Condotti, where I remained unpacking all the afternoon ― & having carpets put down, & [...]

Thursday, 29 December 1859

Rose at 8. ― The long breakfast room ―: sate next the Forsters. ― Called at 9 Condotti ― of course no George as yet. ― Then on Miss Cushman, ― out. ― On the Storeys ― he out, she “did not receive.” ― Knights; & sate some time with Charles. ― Caldwells ― with [...]

Wednesday, 28 December 1859

At 6 up: all bright starlight ― but fading. At 7½ we were in the old C.V. Harbour. ― What fuss & hurry to get to the Inn & Douane! The Douaniers were very decent in themselves; ― but then the misery of those “bolle” & “carte”! ― So, at 10 we were off by [...]

Tuesday, 27 December 1859

At 10, I resolved to wash, & get out of the infernal Hole=cabin: ― so I did & went up on deck. The waves are really a wonderful sight! ― deep blue=black, with [silen] crests ― valley-making, gulfing ― vast, forcible, opal=vitriol hued above, solemn inky below, ― gull=abounding ― ever-moving ―― terrible. But I [...]

Monday, 26 December 1859

Wrote to Ann, C.F. ― F.L. ― C.M.C. ― W.H.H. & S.W.C. ― The Chisholm went away. ― I, at 12 ― took a “billet” in the Quirinale. ― & then walked round the new port. Very fine day, but far more wind than I like, & sea too. ― Returned at 2 & packed [...]

Sunday, 25 December 1859

Suffered from heat & cramps at first but wore thro’ the night to Dijon at 2½, & at Lyons by 6½. After that the weather cleared, & I read & looked out of windows at the mountains beyond [Valence]. At 12 Avignon, & that surprising monument of generous Variety, the breakfast. All the better for [...]

Saturday, 24 December 1859

Slept wonderfully, & woke exhilarious. Breakfast. This Hotel is a wonder. At 11 walked out: slight rain, streets filthy. Called on Thackeray, but I think he wished me to go so I did. Looked at Goupil’s Photographs,1 & then returned to the Louvre Hotel. Wrote & sent a letter to Ann. Read & dawdled till [...]

Friday, 23 December 1859

Wet, but mild & windless. Up by 6½ & breakfast at 7½. Registered luggage &c. ― & off in Steamer by 8¾. Very calm quiet voyage ―: arrived at 11. Thackeray on board. ― Usual passport affairs, ― & bus to Rail. Off at 12. (Dawkins.) Full carriage, but warm thereby. Lunch at Amiens, at [...]

Thursday, 22 December 1859

Very bright & fine & less cold. ― Finished packing, & at 10.20 took a Cab to the Bank, where I “accepted” the 350£ stock I had “bought.” Then to Drummond’s, where I drew out 35£ & left a letter to transfer 95£ to S.W.C. & 5£ to a charity. Then home, & to my [...]