Uprose at sunrise. Beautiful entrance to Gulf of Spezia. Landlord of Villa d’Odessa ― on board. Got good room at his Hotel & washed & dressed.  ― Gulf very beautiful ― & very like Corfu prospects. At 8, set off with G. (or 8½) through the town & up the hills to S.M. of Marinasco. ― Incredible amiability & good manners of peasantry ― one & all! ― “I never saw such people”! ― Prolonged walk round all the hills, till we lost our way, & came down by bad paths about 3, towards the town.

Slept till nearly 6. ― θαυμα ζωμενος ειμαι.1

There was a sort of small table d’hôte ― 2 French, & 2 Anglians: the lady of which latter was a fierce Protestant, & although acknowledging the excellence of the people of these parts, could not allow they were different from those of Rome in reality ― “both are in darkness, & the glorious message of gospel truth has not yet reached the poor creatures.” She waxed very eloquent, & I wished her anywhere. ―

In the evening G. & I walked along the Spiaggia2 ― very pleasantly ― from 8 to 9. ― The day is lovely ― but there are signs of change. ―

48 years old!

[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3.]

  1. Perhaps, “a miracle we are alive” (GT). []
  2. Beach. []