Clear & bright. Coffee: ― & the carriage packed, started at 5.

Rose at 4.

Walked up the steep ascent. ― Above a village, ˇ[6.30] (Giaúne?) the view over the valley of the Dora, is most exquisite ― a world of walnut foliage softened with light & distance, with snowy summits on each side. But beyond this, the views are dull & uninteresting, this only is one of the widest & loveliest of Alpine views. 7 1er Post (Moralet?) Italy shut out. 7.45 shortcut, cuckoos, calves, cows, & humans all going to Susa fair. 8 French artillery: Capt. ― & dog. 9 RC came up. ― snow. 9.30. Road interesting, landscape ugly: zigzags. 9.40. Top of pass. 9.50. Barriera. 10.30. 2nd post, M. Cenizio. Dreary lake of ice & snow ― fog ― fall of snow, rain, glorious  descent. ― Furs. 12. ˇ[3rd post] Lons le Bourg, lunch. Storm of rain: fuss about luggage. ― 1. Fuss about 3rd horses, & set off ― 1.15 ―― descent by river, ― dull, mononotonous, huge. 3.30 ――― village half way, change horses. Crags & depths. Immense fortress. Walk a little. ― 3.25. 4th post, Modane: valley more beautiful. River fine, descent always. 4.30. Pine valley & river. 5 ― at 5th post ― S. Michel: dirty village ― diligence. ― Great crags & wild torrent valley: ― railway making. ― By 6.15 at the Europa Inn, S. Giovanni Maurienne.  New houses, dined at 7. Other arrivals. Girl of the keys.* Landlord & wine. Bed at 9.

Altogether the M. Cenis pass is not to be compared to the others for beauty or grandeur.

* This girl I accosted as “Madame,” taking her for the Landlady ― but she said ―
O dieu! Monsieurs! je fais la cuisine!
O God Sirs! I am the cook!

[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3.]